Pune is home to the Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute (RIMYI) and I am a Certified Iyengar Yoga Teacher (CIYT). So naturally, I wanted to learn more about Pune, located in the western Indian state of Maharashtra.
On my first day in Pune, I toured The Old City which made me want to visit the Aga Khan Palace next. On Day two I got settled into Hare Krishna Mandir Road, home to RIMYI and the Geeta Home Stay, where I stayed for three weeks.
When I travel I don’t research a lot about places before I visit them, other than necessary logistics. I prefer to experience countries with a fresh eye and limited expectations. India is a little different. I have poured effort and passion into studying Iyengar Yoga for the last ten years. I was ready to immerse myself into the culture, learn more about the country, and have a life changing experience.
Nothing quite prepares you for seeing the poverty, pollution, goats eating trash in the ally and bone thin cows moseying across the streets. Or for the toddlers on motorcycles squished between parents (no helmets of course). Or the elderly men pushing heavy carts of goods, by foot, through crowded streets. It’s all sightseeing. Everyday. It’s all part of India. And I saw it all on my second day there, on the way to a grocery store on my first rickshaws drive. Traveling solo.
Everyone I met was kind and helpful. Once during my trip I left my wallet in a rickshaw. I noticed it was gone when I went to pay inside a market. When I came out, the driver had come back to find me, and to return my wallet. I tried to tip him and he would not accept it. He smiled very large, as I expressed my heartfelt thank you. And that was all I could give. Kindness and appreciation.
I was visiting India in January, in the weeks leading up to the inauguration of President Trump. Everyone’s kindness meant a little more to me than usual. Experiencing the peace among the chaos, crowds, noise, and the poverty – made my heart content.
Lately I have really been thinking about our housemate from Israel. Standing in our shared kitchen the day I met her, she looked at me and said very seriously, “I don’t like him. But If he can stop the war, that’s all I care about.” Bombs were going off in her hometown, at least one of the days while we were there.
As yoga practitioners, we do our best to honor the eight limbs of yoga, the Yamas, and non-harming. Many choices that were (and still are) happening in the United States are difficult to accept. Being India in January meant I could be in a different place. I was taking it ALL in, and grateful to be there.
The Aga Khan Palace
My time wondering around the Aga Khan Palace imagining life in a country with a peaceful leader fighting for all beings, across the caste system, was a pleasant escape.
The Aga Khan Palace was built in 1892 and includes a memorial museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi. Gandhi was imprisoned in the palace during his famine strike that marked the end of India’s freedom struggle to win independence from Great Britain in 1947.
It stands as a national monument of India’s freedom movement and Gandhi’s ashes are preserved in the garden. The architecture of the palace is beautiful. The gardens offer a peaceful sanctuary from the busy city. But the museum detailing Gandhi’s part in India’s long, peaceful fight to gain independence is a must see for visitors in Pune.
Walking through the museum felt meaningful. It was inspiring to learn about a this time in history when the Indian people were unified through seeking peace, Hindu prarys to remove obstacles, and fighting without arms.
I don’t want to sound too idealistic. It didn’t take long for me to realize the lack of women on India’s streets, and to recognize the male dominant society. Once home, I read the book, “May You Be The Mother of a Hundred Sons.” A documentary about women in India that I highly recommend, written by journalist Elisabeth Bumiller and published in 1991.
At the Aga Khan Palace, I was once again the only blond haired foreigner there. And I’m tall. So I stick out and up! The grounds and the palace were peaceful and not crowded the day I visted. Walking around offered a time of reflection, while also allowing myself to be fully present.
I was quietly engrossed in reading the timeline of Gandhi’s leadership. And I did not notice the group of Indian women watching me. Then an elderly women in a pink shaw caught my attention and said sweetly asked “pic?” Two women traded iPhones, taking group photos with me so they each had one with themselves in the group. Before we ended our time, I asked them to take one with my camera and they repeated the same swap system so I had a photo of all the women, with me.
There was no one else in the large open the room. We smiled and nodded, while being equally curious about each other. It was just me, with these beautiful Indian women who didn’t speak English. But the communication between us held a connection I’ll always remember.
Using Uber to get around
When I checked into the Geeta Homestay, the owner Supriya helped answer all my questions about the area, and assured me that my plan to Uber around solo was safe. But to be back before dark.
Since I was going across town solo to visit the Aga Khan Palace and into The Old City to visit the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum – on very congested polluted roads – I used Uber and chose the highest level “Luxury” car option in India. Still cheep. But better for a woman traveling solo.
In the Model Colony area around RIYMI, taking an Uber auto rickshaw was my favorite way to get around! This silly video was of my first Uber ride, going to the grocery store.🛺
I’m grateful for Uber because it eliminates the language barrier and challenges of giving directions to drivers. An international data plan allows me follow my own Uber app to double check the driver is taking me where we are supposed to go. Plus payment is electronic which means no haggling.
The Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum
From the palace I went to the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum, home to an extensive and eclectic collection of folkloric and spiritual artifacts from all parts of India. I wondered around for an hour. I could have stayed longer but my plan was to make it back to RIYMI to observe evening classes.
The museum is set up on three levels, with one way in and one way out. At one point, I did nonchalantly stick near a British man and his son, when I started to feel uncomfortable being a solo woman there. Being curiously stared at was getting old.
The ladies who worked at the museum were lovely, and welcomed me to sit with them while I waited an extra 20 minutes for a luxury Uber car to pick me up. I’m very proud of my bravery and wherewith-all to venture out in an Indian city (of 7 million people) solo. That evening, when I told my housemate from Israel about my day, she said, “And this is you’re first time in Pune? Wow you are very comfortable here.” It was her 14th time in Pune.
Here is few a photos and video from Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum.
Ancient Temples on Parvati Hill
One a weekend between our two weeks of classes, while our group was all together from Nashville, we visited the Ancient Temples on Parvati Hill. The temples are from the Marathas Empire and some of the oldest sights in Pune. For more history and information about these temples, I found discoveringtemples.com to be helpful. It’s also helpful to note, that nothing in India ever looks like the pictures you see online for tourism information. I think photo editing makes them look unrealistic clean and freshly painted. That was never the case. At least in my experience.
I read a few tips to enjoy the wonderful views of Pune on top of the hill. It was too polluted to see much the day we were there. Nonetheless, it was nice to visit. I also enjoyed the attached Peshwa Museum. While sightseeing this time, I was happy our teacher Aretha with us. She always shines her light and wisdom on subjects we know less about.
To help give a picture of truth, I did not edit my phone photos, so I can provide an example of what you will see, versus what you see online.
I’ll be doing one more Stories from Pune post, with more favorite street photos, visits with a seamstress, and the modern side of Pune. Because parts of the city does feel modern. There are great coffee shops, restaurants and shopping!
Just for fun, I typed into Google, “What is Pune known for?” And AI said this:
“Pune, India, is known for its diverse offerings, including its rich history, vibrant culture, and thriving educational and IT sectors. It’s often called the “Oxford of the East” due to its numerous prestigious educational institutions. Additionally, Pune is a major hub for the automobile and manufacturing industries, and it boasts a strong IT presence.”